Herringbone Parquet Riyadh — Herringbone and Chevron, Properly Set Out

Yes, but board size matters. Small boards in a calm tone turn the pattern into a fine texture that doesn’t feel busy, whereas wide boards in a small room leave lots of cut pieces at the walls. A lengthwise axis helps too.

Herringbone sits more naturally with classic décor and traditional floor seating, while chevron suits modern majlis rooms with crisp lines and concealed lighting. Either way, the seating area is usually covered by a rug, so the pattern shows as a frame around it — something we factor in when setting the axis.

Often, yes, if the tiles are solid and very flat. The pattern is more sensitive to undulation than straight planks because its many short joints reveal every difference, so we check flatness with a long straightedge and may level some areas first.

Typically more than with straight planks, because every row ends in an angled cut at the wall. It rises further in rooms with corners, columns or narrow passages, and drops somewhat with a straight border. We calculate the real figure from the plan; keep a spare box.

Yes, if the two spaces share a similar axis, so the floor reads as one. If the hallway runs very differently, a threshold strip and a fresh start along the hallway’s axis usually looks better. We show you both options on the plan before work starts.

Mid tones with visible grain bring the pattern out most, because light catches each board at a different angle. Very pale shades make it soft and subtle; dark ones look luxurious but show dust. Check samples in daylight and evening light.

Much like any parquet, but more joints mean more places for water to get in, so use a well-wrung mop and never pour water on the floor. Fit felt pads under sofas and chairs, and put rugs on heavy walkways so one part of the pattern doesn’t fade faster than the rest.